Buying vs. Leasing #europa #car


#buying cars
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Buying vs. Leasing

Getty Images/David McNew

Most shoppers aren t able to pay cash for a new car, so you ll need to decide how you re going to finance it. While many people take out a car loan, leasing a new car is simply another form of new-car financing. Let s look to see if leasing or buying makes the most sense for you.

Benefits of Leasing a Car

Leasing a car is similar to financing the purchase of the car in many ways, but there are some key differences. You might be able to get more car for less money by leasing. That s because a car loan is based on the full price of a new car, while a lease is based on only a percentage of the car s price. For example, on a $30,000 car, you d finance the entire $30,000 purchase price with a car loan. With a car lease, you only pay the difference between the car s price and what it s expected to be worth at the end of the lease, which is a car s residual value. So if the car s residual value is 55 percent after three years, for example, that means the $30,000 car would be worth $16,500 at the end of the lease. You d make lease payments on the remaining $13,500 and not the full $30,000.

If you only have a small down payment saved up, leasing may also be better for you. Many car leases require anywhere from $0 to several thousand dollars up front, though the down payment is negotiable. Many advertised lease offers will promote low payments, but require a sizeable down payment. If you want to put as little down as possible, remember that your monthly lease payments will be higher.

Many leases last about three years, which is typically the length of many new-car bumper-to-bumper warranties. That means the car is usually covered under warranty for repairs for the duration of the lease. You still need to maintain the car, though, which includes oil changes, tire rotations and recommended maintenance from the manufacturer. Failure to properly maintain the car during the lease can result in fees when you turn the car in at the end of the lease.

If you enjoy having the newest high-tech features, leasing could be the better choice for you. Since you d be leasing every few years, each new car you lease will have the latest and greatest technology and safety features. With a leased car, you don t have to worry about selling the car or getting a good price for your trade-in. When the lease is up, you can simply turn in the car and walk away.

Drawbacks of Leasing a Car

Lease contracts limit the number of miles you can drive. These mileage restrictions typically are 9,000, 12,000 and 15,000 miles a year. You need to estimate how many miles you drive per year so you can determine how many miles to purchase. If you go over that amount, you ll pay a fee per mile at the end of the lease when you turn the car in. These overage charges can be very expensive.

With leasing, you can sometimes make minor alterations to the vehicle that can be reversed before you turn the car back in, but you generally can t make any major alterations. Make sure you read the lease contract carefully before signing.

Another drawback is that when you lease, you re really just renting the car for a few years and paying interest to finance that car over a specified period of time. Since you re basically renting the car when you lease, you re not building any equity. That means that when the lease ends, you either have to get a new car, with new payments, or take out a loan to buy the car you were leasing.

Another potential downside to leasing is that usually only shoppers with good credit scores will qualify for a car lease. If your credit score is less than perfect, you may want to consider waiting to lease until you can increase your credit score.

Benefits of Buying a Car

If you like to keep your vehicle as long as possible, buying is probably better for you. When you buy, you own the car when the loan is paid off. Until the car loan is paid off, the lender owns the vehicle. As you continue to make loan payments, you re gaining equity in the vehicle. Once you re done paying off the loan, the car is yours you own it and don t have to include a monthly car payment in your budget. That s a significant benefit because it means that over several years of not having a payment, you could save money compared to someone who has to keep leasing a new car every three years.

One of the biggest benefits that buying has over leasing is that there are no mileage restrictions. If you do a lot of driving, buying is probably better for you.

Drawbacks of Buying a Car

When you buy a new car, you roll the dice a bit with its resale value. It s hard to determine what the vehicle will be worth when you re ready to trade it in or sell it. With leasing, that future value is predicted up front and put in writing on the contract. If the car is worth less than that amount at the end, it s not your problem. However, if you have a loan on a car and the car is worth less than what the loan is for, you have negative equity (that s also called being upside down on the loan). This is only a drawback if you plan on selling it or trading it in because you ll have to come up with the difference between what the car sells for and the amount of money still left on the loan.

Another potential drawback of buying is a sizeable down payment. Many lenders require about 10 to 20 percent down when taking out a car loan. On a $30,000 vehicle, that s $3,000 to $6,000. It can be tough for people to save up that much money.

One other downside of buying is that to get the monthly payments to fit your budget, you may have to stretch out the length of the loan. Auto loans can last five, six or even seven years. That longer loan term gives more time for interest to add up, so you end up paying more for the car than if you had a shorter loan term. A larger down payment will also help lower your monthly payments when you finance, but again, coming up with that much cash can be difficult.

When it comes to buying and leasing, there s no one-size-fits-all answer. Consider your budget, driving needs, lifestyle and credit history before you decide whether to buy or lease. There are auto lenders who can provide you with financing that works best for you, no matter whether you decide to buy or lease your next vehicle.


Agreed Value vs. Stated Value #car #auctions #online


#estimate car value
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Whats the Difference?

Agreed Value vs. Stated Value

If you have an exotic, modified or classic car, and you are nervous about any potential insurance settlement, chances are you have good reason to be concerned. If a classic car is totalled by the insurance company, will you receive a fair value for it? Is there a way to lock in an answer of “Yes”? Fortunately there is.

There are three different bases that an insurance company can use to value an insured auto. Lets first look at the one that almost everyone has on a typical insurance policy:

Actual Cash Value (ACV)

ACV translated means “What its worth in cash, today (just before you crashed it).” After your accident, an insurance company adjustor will go out to the tow yard and look over your vehicle. After that, using sources of their choosing, they will look up what the typical value should be for your car, and this will be their settlement offer. They may adjust this offer if you object and have some evidence to back up your claim. Or they may not. If the disagreement is strong enough you may need to hire either a lawyer or a mediator. Needless to say this is not an ideal position to be in. You buy insurance so you can be taken care of when suffering through a difficult situation. You don’t need to be researching classic car values, making angry phone calls, firing off letters and certainly not hiring – and paying for – attornies.

Agreed Value

If ACV is the problem, Agreed Value is the solution. If you have a classic insurance policy – from a dedicated company that only issues this sort of policy – this should be the kind of coverage you have. Instead of the above scenario with ACV, what happens instead is you and the insurance company agree on the vehicle value when you sign up – before the policy is issued and any money changes hands. In the event of a disaster, the insurance company guarantees to pay the value that the two of you agree upon before shaking hands. No ifs, ands or buts.

We said this “should” be the kind of coverage you have. You might not. To find out for sure, look in the physical damage section of your policy. Somewhere in there it will say what is going to happen if your classic car is a total loss. The exact statement should be very close to this:


New vs. Used Car – 6 Benefits of Buying a Used Car for Cheap #car #bra


#buy a used car
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New vs. Used Car 6 Benefits of Buying a Slightly Used Car for Cheap

By Jason Steele

Other than your home, your car might be the most expensive purchase that you ever make. I love nice cars, but I also try to manage my finances responsibly. As a result, I have reluctantly come to the conclusion that a new car is an unnecessary expense.

Sure, you can find overpriced used cars and bargain buys on brand-new vehicles, but it s not just the sticker price that makes a new car a waste. The associated fees, subsequent costs, and losses in value (i.e. depreciation) add up to thousands of dollars over the first few years of new car ownership. This is especially bad news if you end up upside down on your car loan .

On the other hand, a slightly-used car one that s only around two years old and has under 30,000 miles on it can help you keep cash in your pocket without sacrificing quality. Below are 6 benefits of buying a used car (in like-new condition) over a brand new one.

1. Used Cars: Lower Price Tag, Less Depreciation

Remember the old adage that a new car loses thousands of dollars in value the moment you drive it off the lot? It s still true, and it s why used cars are better bargains. It s also why you can buy a 2007 Porsche for the price of a 2011 Honda. Someone bought the Porsche for $50,000 and now it can be yours for $25,000.

Think about the average price of buying new. Figures from CNW Marketing Research show that the average price of a new car in 2008 was $25,536 before taxes and fees. That car could now be worth around $13,000. Would you rather  be the original buyer, who lost $12,000 or $13,000, or the second buyer who saves that much?

If you buy a car that s one or two years old, it ll still depreciate, but you ll lose less money less quickly. And you ll avoid that big initial hit that the previous owner took.

2. Sales Tax on New Cars

Every ad for a new car glosses over the tax issue. Many state laws subject new cars to state sales tax. but not used cars. In Georgia, for example, if you buy a used car from a private seller. you won t owe any sales tax at all. Comparatively, the sales tax that dealers have to add to the price of a new car can be thousands of dollars. Don t underestimate the savings, and research your state s laws on the subject before you make a decision.

3. Falling Registration Fees

In most states, the rate of your annual registration fee is based on your car s value and its model year. In Colorado, for example, registration fees fall dramatically during the first few years after a car is manufactured. The rate is highest in the first three years, and then levels off after five years. If your state has similar rules, you can save about a thousand dollars by avoiding the new car registration fees and buying a car that s at least three, or better yet five, years old.

4. Useless Extras on New Cars, Cheaper Features on Used Cars

The oldest trick in the dealer s book is to install additional dealer options. They ll add a pinstripe, a protective film, or the immortal anti-rust coating, but new car buyers who want these add-ons can easily get them for a much lower cost from an after-market installer. Regardless, these changes don t add a dime to the car s resale value anyway. When you buy used, you may not get every feature you want, but you certainly won t end up paying extra for things you didn t ask for.

On the other hand, when you search for specific features that you do want in a used car, like a sunroof or navigation system, you ll pay far less than the original owner did. Instead of needing to decline a dealer s expensive navigation package with fees and surcharges, you ll be able to afford the built-in features.

5. Dealers and Their Crazy Fees

As if paying $500 for rust-proofing isn t bad enough, dealers hit new car buyers with shipping charges, destination fees, and dealer preparation. These fees feel even worse because unlike the unnecessary, unwanted pinstripe, owners have absolutely nothing to show for these charges except a lower bank account. When you buy a used car, you ll have to visit the DMV to pay tag, title, and registration fees, but you won t deal with any of the nonsense that dealers add.

Instead of caving to dealer fees and buying new, you take on a more powerful role when you re in the market to buy a used car. You have a much better case for negotiating when you can tell a private seller you might just walk away from their old car. If they bought new, they re not going to know everything you know about the benefits of buying used. They ll be eager to keep you at the negotiating table.

6. Condition

Nowadays, cars are built to last for at least 100,000 miles, so you don t have to sacrifice reliability and overall condition just to get a good deal on a used car. You can get a used (or pre-owned ) car that s scratch-free and in excellent mechanical shape. In fact, if you know anything about cars, you should be able to find one that is in like new condition.

However, if you re not comfortable under the hood, you can rely on the certification programs and extended long-term car warranties that most car makers offer. When you buy a used car at a manufacturer s dealership. you ll know that they ve inspected the vehicle and that it meets the strict requirements for certification. The biggest benefit you might find is the manufacturer s warranty for used cars. Toyota, for example, offers a seven-year 100,000-mile warranty on certified used vehicles. This kind of peace of mind is crucial when buying a used car.

Final Word

New cars smell great, but how much is that scent really worth? By looking beyond the sale price and considering the total cost of buying new, you can get a better idea of how much you are really going to pay for the privilege of being the first owner of your next car. You might have to spend a little extra time on research, but from the initial price to the long-term costs, you ll thank yourself for buying a slightly-used car that s in good condition.

What are the pros and cons that you see to buying new or buying used? Share your success stories or nightmare deals in the comments below.


NADA Guide vs. Black Book vs. Kelley Blue Book #diecast #model #cars


#used car pricing guide
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Throwing the Book at You: Which “Blue Book” Gets You the Best Deal?

“Blue Book pricing!”

“We’re selling below Blue Book!”

“Get true Blue Book value for your trade-in!”

Whether you’re buying or selling a car, or even just conscious these days, you can’t get away from Blue Book mania. At one time “Blue Book” value was a used car insider’s term like cream puff or cherry, but today the phrase is, er, all over the lot.

Born of the original restricted-circulation, dealer-only NADA guide of used car wholesale and retail values, the Blue Book has become one of the major merchandising devices of modern vehicle selling. From seedy used car lots, to new car dealers, to million dollar national promotions for major automobile manufacturers, they all claim to sell cars at or below “Blue Book.”

What, actually, is a Blue Book? Who started this whole arbitrary pricing bible? How accurate are they and how do they get their numbers? Most importantly, do they provide truly valuable information to help you get the best deal, whether you’re buying or selling new or used? Read on.

Although the real Blue Book goes by the brand name Kelley Blue Book. like Kleenex for tissues, the term has become generic for all vehicle pricing guides. There are three principal reference sources heading a wide array of vehicle pricing information available today through printed matter, the Internet, and high zoot communicators such as BlackBerries and Treos.

Kelley Blue Book

Eighty-one years old, this guide boasts that one out of three people who buy a new or used car in the United States use this service. Kelley Blue Book (often misspelled as Kelly Blue Book) collects its information by attending auctions throughout the country where it bases used car evaluations: Excellent, Good, Fair and Poor. From those, Kelley Blue Book then sets wholesale values based on what are called “front line” (as in traffic stopper) vehicles, which also includes costs for reconditioning, transportation and auction fees.

Why should Kelley Blue Book be the book you depend on for the best deal? They claim it is most valuable to you, because you can get a quote from a Kelley Blue Book in Steubenville, Ohio and it will be the same at thousands of dealerships across the country. This means that buying or selling, you’re getting a fair deal.

Nada Guide: Blue-and-Orange/Yellow Book

Spokespeople for the 74-year-old NADA guide say their book is superior to the others because the NADA book is the official data guide issued strictly for dealer members of the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) trade group, and it has access to totally exclusive data, such as dealer retail sales, and it analyzes additional data from more than 500,000 various points of sale and other market data.

They say the circulation of the NADA guide out-guns the competition by almost five to one. The wholesale and retail pricing listed in the NADA guide seems to be higher in some areas than Kelley Blue Book due to its preset standard that all trade-ins be in very clean condition. Since “front line” might not accurately describe your vehicle, (only 5 percent of trade-ins or wholesale vehicles are) be prepared to adjust your expectations downward from what the NADA guide says.

Black Book

The 52-year-old, widely-used Black Book guide is circulation controlled, restricted to dealers and financing sources. Unlike kbb.com and NADA.com, the Black Book Web site does not provide data, only links you to dealers. The Black Book is the only value guide issued weekly instead of monthly, reflecting the latest prices direct from actual or online automobile dealers.

Whereas other value books or value Web sites may break down value into WHOLESALE and RETAIL numbers or TRADE-IN, PRIVATE PARTY and RETAIL, Black Book truly specializes in WHOLESALE VALUE, determining the value of used cars within categories of EXTRA CLEAN, CLEAN, AVERAGE or ROUGH. Although the others also issue editions for special interest/classic/rare cars, the Black Book’s Cars of Particular Interest (CPI) value guide contains over 14,000 vehicles, dating from 1946 to 2007.

What Do the Pros Use?

According to Lynn Faeth, referring to the used car operation of his nationally-noted The Scout Connection dealership in Fort Madison, Iowa, “I use the Kelley Blue Book and the Black Book for used car valuation. But the Black Book CPI is my mainstay in determining the true value of any rare or unusual vehicle which I buy or sell.”

Seconding Faeth’s comment, is John Gorton who runs Gerton Auto Sales, a large, successful used car enterprise in Mt. Vernon, Indiana, “I use the Black Book — the electronic version — exclusively in my operation, because its used car pricing seems to be more accurate and up to date, coming out weekly instead of monthly.”

“The system I use,” adds longtime Southern California car salesman Roger Himmel, “combines checking value of a trade-in or used car purchase in Kelley Blue Book and the NADA guide, then telephoning wholesalers or other dealers to see what the value is to them. After all, for every thing I buy, I must find a buyer.”

Back to the books, since each of the three value data industry leaders claim to offer the most accurate information and the best deal to buyers and sellers, AOL Autos decided to investigate by researching the used car values of three different types of vehicles in each of the three books, Kelley Blue Book (KBB), Black Book and the NADA guide.

The Subjects

1998 Dodge Durango SLT: An older American-made hemi-muscles big iron SUV

2004 Honda Civic EX: A gas-squeezing highly popular late model Japanese sedan.

2002 Porsche Boxster S: German sports car.

All are in clean condition, all are standard factory equipped.

Here, based on the actual data in the May 2007 books and electronic data from these three sources are the AVERAGE comparisons. The first number is what the guides say you can expect selling or trading in your used car. The second column is the starting point for negotiations on what the used car dealer wants for the same vehicle, if you are buying.

Based on these numbers, it would appear that your lead sled Durango is going to fetch the prettier penny from dealers who favor the Black Book. If you’re buying, you want the NADA guide users.

You can also see that the differences of the Honda’s wholesale value could fit under a spare tire cover. But when it comes to retail, the Kelley Blue Book value is out there thousands of dollars over the other two.

It appears that you would get top buckster for your used Boxster from the Black Book gang, but if you’re shopping for one, the NADA guide-using dealer would appear to be your best bet.

However, remember these comparisons can change week to week (for Black Book), month to month (for the others) and definitely region to region. For example, in an earlier study, Black Book data showed lower wholesale values than the NADA Guide, but higher than the Kelley Blue Book numbers. Go figure.

In addition, situations can change. If gas went back to a buck a gallon, OK even two bucks, what would the Durango be worth then? Would the high-mileage wonders like Prius and the MINI lose their high esteem and growing demand cachets?

So, the bottom line as to which book to use is that there is no steady, set, fixed bottom line; they are all good, dependable, honest sources of information, some better than others for specific vehicles or markets or needs or purposes. When it comes to buying and or selling a new or used vehicle, you might say the best method would be to use a combination of a used car classifieds search, your judgment and these sources as your own value guide, remembering most importantly that they are guides, not the Magna Car-ta.


Audi A4 Vs. BMW 3-Series: Compare Cars #car #parking #games


#cars compare
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Audi A4 Vs. BMW 3-Series: Compare Cars

Senior Editor

November 9, 2015

2015 Audi A4

T hough BMW and Mercedes-Benz are the luxury-segment front-runners, lately, Audi has been gaining on them. What Audi may be missing in cachet, it makes up for with charm—demonstrated well with its smart, thoroughly competitive A4. But can the A4 actually outpace the newest 3-Series—with all its body styles and power choices? The A4 is the brand’s bread-and-butter model. On the outside, it can seem understated where the BMW 3-Series is bold. Inside, the A4 is an entry-level tailored suit, perhaps a half-step behind what you can get in the latest 3-Series, if you pay quite a bit extra. But behind the wheel, the A4 is poised, and satisfyingly capable, landing somewhere between plush and focused. It’s this balance that gives the A4 its charm, and it’s that balance that makes it a serious rival to the 3-Series, even though BMW sells more cars.

Audi doesn’t quite offer the wide range of powertrains that BMW does. Under the hood, the base A4 uses a 2.0-liter turbocharged engine–a move made well before BMW’s addition of the 240-hp turbo four in the 328i model. With 220 horsepower, it’s closely matched to the 3-Series, though it ultimately comes up short on the spec sheet. On the other hand, BMW’s prices have risen sharply over the past several years, and the lower-output version of the 328i’s engine, making just 180 hp in the 320i, is close match to the A4 2.0T.

Unlike the 3-Series, however, you won’t find a potent six-cylinder in the mid-range; you have to jump all the way up to the S4, where you’ll find a 333-horsepower supercharged V-6 engine, an aggressive suspension, and rakish styling that rivals the M3’s–though again, the Audi comes up short on power numbers. The latest M3 generates 425 horsepower from a 3.0-liter twin-turbo six and dual-clutch gearbox (for a 0-60 mph time of as little as 3.9 seconds).

BMW also offers the 335i, with a turbocharged in-line six-cylinder good for 300 horsepower and 300 pound-feet of torque. There’s also a 328d, with 181 horsepower from a turbodiesel four-cylinder engine.

Also unlike the 3-Series, the A4 is a front-drive-based sedan, with quattro all-wheel drive available in higher-trim models. While this bias–and its frontward weight bias–ultimately brings it up somewhat short of the 3-Series’ ultimate dynamics, the available quattro system makes the A4 as competent as any luxury sedan in foul weather. BMW’s xDrive system is available in the 3-Series, but only in a limited number of models.

Further distancing itself from the 3-Series, the Audi A4 is available as a wagon–or Allroad, as Audi styles it for the latest model year. BMW is reviving its 3-Series wagon but without the more overt styling cues, while it’s split off its two-door models into the new 4-Series and M4 range.

Front seats are spacious and comfortable in both the 3-Series and the A4, though the latest 3-Series sedan grows an inch in wheelbase, dedicating most of that to rear seat space, where it is noticeably roomier than the A4’s close quarters, particularly when it comes to leg room. Neither is spacious, however–a classic tradeoff in the segment.

Quality, fit, and finish are very good in both cars. BMW’s cockpit has improved, though some touches can seem out of character–like the optional nav screen that perches on top of the dash, instead of integrating into it. The A4 is a more seamless piece, with a lush new LCD screen that renders Google Earth and Street View maps in gorgeous detail. For most, it will come down to a matter of taste: where the BMW is sometimes drab, sometimes busy, the Audi is sleek and polished, uncluttered and largely intuitive. Creaks, rattles, and other signs of poor build quality are non-existent in the A4.

When it comes to ride quality, both cars err a bit toward the sporty side, showing occasional harshness over rougher surfaces. Some will call it the price they pay for their sharper handling, but others will find the Mercedes-Benz C-Class’s more plush ride preferable to either. BMW’s steering tracks much more cleanly than the A4.

Both cars also offer a host of advanced technology, with iDrive powering the 3-Series’ infotainment and MMI behind Audi’s. While both systems are advanced and capable, MMI is slightly more intuitive to most. Both of these cars now have Bluetooth standard across the model line. The 3-Series also offers an excellent head-up display (HUD) that’s just become available on the A4, tying speed, navigation, and other information into a display projected onto the windshield. Audi also has in-car wireless Internet with Audi Connect, which in turn feeds data to that exceptional nav system.

One bit of technology the A4–and S4–come with that we’d rather it didn’t is Drive Select, as system that offers adjustable control of the steering, damping, and other characteristics of the car. It comes off as gimmicky, changing feel but not improving the car’s communicative aspects or handling in any noticeable way.

Finally, the matter of safety. The BMW 3-Series is perhaps a step ahead; it’s been rated five stars overall by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), while both models have mostly ‘good’ Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) ratings. Neither one does particularly well in the IIHS small-overlap frontal test (‘marginal’ for the 3-Series and ‘poor’ for the A4).

With the wide range of models and body styles tucked under either nameplate, both the BMW 3-Series and Audi A4 have something to appeal to most luxury buyers. The BMW still has the performance edge that adrenaline junkies seek out consistently, though the Audi S-cars aren’t far off. But when high-tech gadgets and a purer design are the better lure, it’s the Audi lineup that wins.


Car Trade-In vs For Sale By Owner? #cars #for #rent


#car trade in
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‘Car Trade-In’ vs ‘For Sale By Owner’?

If you decide to trade-in your used car. here are some handy tips:

  • Never reveal your intention to trade-in a used car to a dealer.
  • Negotiate and settle on a price for the car you’re buying first. Then, tell them you want to do a trade-in. You may get a better deal this way.
  • Find out your used car’s Wholesale and Retail value before you go to a car dealer. Dealers give wholesale values for car trade-ins, after deducting the cost of reconditioning them. Knowing these values in advance should help you in your negotiations, since you will know what your car is worth. And hopefully, put more money in your pocket.
  • Some dealers may create a “charge-back” to you somewhere in your purchase contract without you knowing it. Check and have them remove it, if it’s in your purchase contract.

Avoid used “Car Trade-In Allowances”.

Used car dealers give Trade-in allowances to sellers who they perceive to be trying to get the most value for their used car at trade-in. A car dealer may include this charge in your purchase price, to balance out extra money he would’ve made had you not negotiated heavily. They may also not give you any discount off the sticker price, even if you deserve it.

  • Read and understand your entire purchase contract before you sign it. You can avoid problems at the car dealer’s lot doing so.

When it’s time to sell your used car. you can always sell it on AutoCrisis.com. It’s FREE with Photo, Fast and Easy!


Discount Batteries vs. Cheap Battery #car #bras


#cheap car batteries
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Because we sell discount batteries – not cheap batteries

AND THERE’S A BIG DIFFERENCE!

A cheap battery is – in a word – unreliable.

Cheap batteries are imitations, likely several years old …

Cheap batteries have been improperly stored and won’t last …

Cheap batteries have expired before you even buy them…

Plenty of other companies sell the cheapest batteries around … but they just aren’t worth it!

What you think you’re saving on a cheap battery costs you more in replacements. Instead, turn to Medic’s discount batteries for savings and power you can rely on.

Shopping for discount batteries with Medic Batteries is different – here’s why:

  • Quality Product – Our discount batteries are the highest quality batteries available. We sell top rated, genuine brands only – including Duracell, Energizer, Rayovac, and more. While other companies are offering the cheapest batteries on the market, they’re cutting corners with inferior products low on charge. Discount batteries save you money while still packing a powerful punch!
  • Unbeatable Prices – We offer consistently low prices on our entire inventory of discount batteries. Sure, you could grab a cheap battery for a few cents shorter, but our name-brand discount batteries will last longer to save you time and money from having to replace shoddy expired cheap discount batteries.
  • Fast, Low Cost Shipping – Most of our discount batteries are boxed and sent out on the same day you order them! Your discount batteries are delivered right to your door for the lowest possible shipping charge in a discrete, unlabeled box for order safety and confidentially. We offer free shipping batteries that get to your door in no time!
  • Superior Customer Service – Medic Batteries is an established, family operated discount batteries provider. No one cares more about your business and experience than we do. Our friendly, knowledgeable staff is on the job from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM Monday – Friday EST to answer your questions and help place orders by phone or online chat. We’re here for every customer – consumers, businesses, government agencies, and everyone in between!
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee – If you aren’t completely satisfied with your Medic Batteries discount batteries, we’ll take them back. Our discount batteries are quality guaranteed by the manufacturer, and should any damage occur to your device as a result of a defective battery, you are protected by the original manufacturer’s guarantee. (Can’t get that from a cheap battery purchase, can you!)

Choosing Medic Batteries means you’re choosing quality. Stock up on your discount batteries today with name-brands at affordable prices you can rely on, and say goodbye to the days of cheap batteries letting you down!

MAKE THE RIGHT CONNECTION – CHOOSE MEDIC BATTERIES!


Used Car Prices Black Book vs. Blue Book #japanese #cars


#black book car values
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Used Car Prices Black Book vs. Blue Book

The used car prices Black Book and Blue Book values serve different purposes. Both books claim to be the more accurate source of used car pricing guides. The Kelley Blue Book gets more traffic when it comes to being used by buyers. They have been around since 1918, while Black Book started in 1955.

The Blue Book started with just used car ratings and values, but evolved to include new prices. The Blue Book, although being used the most, is usually thought as a little less accurate in their prices. They offer no guarantee in their price valuations, and often times they are very different than the Black Book. The Black Book offer many different books, such as the Black Book Daily, Black Book First Values and a few others. The Black Book also has premium subscriber content that involved dealer auctions and wholesale prices. This makes their valuations more specific.

Find Your Next Used Car Get Started Now

The Blue Book is a consumer driven book, where drivers can look to see what they can expect to pay or receive for their vehicle. The Black Book on the other hand, is a dealer driven book. The pricing deals with wholesale values and the most up to date car sales. These books are both good for valuing cars, but they are on opposite sides of the spectrum. As a consumer you want the “KBB,” while a dealer looks more at the Black Book.

How to Find a Used Car Price Online

Finding a used car price online takes only a few minutes of your time. Kelley’s Blue Book has the most user friendly used car price search out there, and their values are respected and highly accurate. Here are some steps to get a quick price from Kelley Blue Book.

  • Once you are on the KBB website, go to the used car page
  • You can search by price range, body style (SUV, minivan, sedan, etc.) or by exact make, model and year
  • Select the value you want, whether it be suggested retail value, trade in value or private party value
  • If there are multiple trims for your model, select that exact trim
  • The next step is very important. Input the mileage on the car as that can have a big effect on price
  • All of the available features for that trim of that year are listed. Check off any features your car has
  • Select the condition of the car. Most cars are “Good,” while five percent of used cars fall in the “Excellent” condition category
  • Your price will be displayed. You can also view the other value types by clicking their names on the same page

Lease vs Buy Explained – by #car #supermarkets


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Lease vs Buy Explained

Which is Better: Leasing a Car or Buying a Car?

The answer is — it depends. It s not possible to simply say that one is always better than the other because the answer depends on the specifics of each individual situation, which we will explain further.

Leasing a car is a great option for some people, but not for others. Some will not qualify because of credit, income, or other requirements. Therefore, if you are considering leasing, it s important to know how to determine if a lease is a good option for you, or if you qualify.

Lease vs Buy: The Basics

First, leasing is only an option for financing brand new cars, not used cars, although leasing of used luxury cars is available from specialty car dealers in some cities.

Leases and purchase loans are simply two different methods of automobile financing. Car leasing is not renting as many people seem to think. It s not at all like apartment leasing. Although leasing is similar to renting in some respects, car leasing and car renting are completely different and should not be confused.

Ask Yourself These Questions

  • Which is more important: Driving a new vehicle every two or three years with no major repair risks — or driving one vehicle for many years and assuming responsibility for all maintenance repairs after the first years?
  • Which is more important: Lower monthly payments but higher long term cost — or lower long-term cost but higher initial monthly payments?
  • Which is more important: Building ownership value and paying off your vehicle, even though it means higher monthly payments — or building no ownership value, with the benefit of significantly lower monthly payments?
  • Do you drive no more than an average amount of miles in a year — or is your mileage highly unpredictable?
  • Do you take good care of your cars and maintain them properly — or do you prefer be more lax about such things?
  • Do you have a stable lifestyle such that you will not want to end your lease early — or is there a high likelihood of wanting out early?

So we find out that making a lease-or-buy decision is not quite cut-and-dry. There are trade-offs, pluses and minuses, and pros and cons to consider.

Let s look at how leasing and buying compare.

Buying and Leasing Compared

When you lease. you pay only a portion of a vehicle s total value, which is the part of the value that you use up during the time you re driving it.

You have a choice of not making a down payment, you pay sales tax only on your monthly payments (in most states), and you pay a financial rate, called money factor. that is similar to the interest on a loan. You may also be required to pay fees and possibly a security deposit that you don t pay when you buy.

You make your first payment at the time you sign your contract — for the month ahead. Your next payment is due a month later. At lease-end, you may either return the vehicle, or purchase it for the part of the value that you haven t already paid. The purchase price is stated in your contract at the time you sign.

If you decide to return your vehicle, you may be charged a lease-end disposition fee, and for any excessive mileage or wear-and-tear, the details of which are spelled out in your lease contract. Purchasing your vehicle avoids these fees.

When you buy. you pay for the entire value of a vehicle, regardless of how many miles you drive it or how long you keep it. You can pay cash or get an auto finance loan.

Monthly loan payments are always  higher for a loan than for a lease — 60%-110% higher — for the same car. You typically make a down payment of 10%-20%, pay sales tax on the full purchase price, and pay a loan interest rate determined by your loan company, based on your credit score. You make your first payment a month after you sign your contract.

Later, you may decide to sell or trade the vehicle for its depreciated resale or trade value, which may be considerably less than the vehicle s original cost. The feasibility of selling or trading before loan completion depends on your equity — your vehicle s current value versus your outstanding loan balance. If the loan balance is higher, you have negative equity — not good.  Otherwise, you have positive equity — good.

Lease Example

If you lease a $20,000 car that will have, say, an estimated resale value of $13,000 after 24 months, you only pay for the $7000 difference (the depreciation), plus finance charges. This is fundamentally why leasing offers significantly lower monthly payments. You can return the car at lease-end, or buy it for the remaining $13,000 that you haven t already paid — or trade it if the vehicle is worth more than $13,000.

Buy Example

When you buy with a loan, you pay the entire $20,000 cost. plus finance charges. You own the car at the end of the loan, although its value is less than the $20,000 you initially paid — $7000 less. All cars suffer the same value depreciation regardless of how they are financed — purchase or lease. You have the option to sell or trade the vehicle, or continue driving it while enjoying no further monthly payments.

Here s a table that compares a typical lease payment with loan payments for the same car, same price,  same down payment, same interest rate, and same number of months. Lease payments are 42% less. An additional comparison shows that lease payments are still lower by 36% even when compared to a 0% loan interest rate.


Edmunds Used Car Price Guide vs. Kelley Blue Book


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Edmunds Used Car Price Guide vs. Kelley Blue Book

February 28, 2013

Most people who have either purchased or sold a used car are familiar with the Edmunds used car price guide. the Kelley Blue Book and other used car price guide books as well. These documents present current information about average prices for used vehicles on the market. They can be extremely helpful to both sellers and buyers when attempting to figure out what a fair deal for a used vehicle is. However, they can also be very misleading, and it is important that you know the differences between these two information sources and how to best use the data that they provide. Failure to do so may result in you charging or paying more than you should for a used vehicle, which can cost you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

See how much your car is worth

Edmunds Used Car Price Guide

The Edmunds used car price guide generates car values from a wide variety of sources, including dealership transactions, depreciation costs for unique vehicles and private seller information. The guide splits car condition up into 5 different categories which you can use to help judge the price of your vehicle through comparison. Naturally, a salvage level car will sell for only a fraction of the cost of a like-new model of the same vehicle. Generally speaking, most buyers and sellers agree that Edmunds has a more comprehensive listing of car conditions than Kelley Blue Book does.

The Edmunds guide attempts to provide you with an overall average price for cars of a particular make, model, year and condition. This average is inclusive of both private sellers and dealers. Generally, private sellers will sell vehicles for significantly less than dealers, so the Edmunds guide price for a used vehicle may be somewhere in between and, consequently, a bit higher than you may wish to offer a vehicle if you plan to sell it privately.

Kelley Blue Book Price Guide

The Kelley Blue Book also gathers its data from a number of different sources. Unlike Edmunds, however, Kelley values generally cater more toward the dealer. Many dealers utilize the Kelley Blue Book guide prices for used vehicles, and dealers and customers negotiate the actual price of a vehicle downward from that level. For this reason, the Kelley value tends to be higher than the Edmunds value and also quite a bit higher than what a private seller would charge for a car. Likewise, you should not expect to pay the full Kelley Blue Book value for a car in most cases.

Ultimately, neither the Edmunds nor the Kelley value of a vehicle is entirely accurate for any particular car. The quality of the car and the various depreciation costs play a much greater role in the overall price than either of these two values do. However, the Edmunds value generally provides a more accurate price for the customer than the Kelley value does. Consult a specialist for more assistance.

Related Questions and Answers

Do Dealerships go by the KBB Trade in Value for Trading in a Car?

Dealerships seldom go by the KBB trade in value (Kelley Blue Book) for cars when you bring your car in to sell or trade it in for another vehicle. Instead, they go by two other values. The Wholesale Blue Book Value and the Manheim Market Report. The Manheim Market Report is a report from the average of cars sold at auctions based on the sales of thousands of cars and trucks all over the U.S. The Wholesale Blue Book value is the most money that a car dealer will pay for a car after they determine how much they will have to spend on it to fix it up so i can be resold.

What is the Blue Book Value of My Car?

Many people want an answer to the question of ‘what is the blue book value of my car ?’. If you need the answer to this question, you can find it by going to the Kelley Blue Book website or other websites such as edmunds.com, that help consumers figure out the potential value of their car or truck. Most car dealerships would also have a copy of the Kelley Blue Book publication, but it is probably a good idea to check it out yourself so you aren’t pressured into selling your car to them, or trading your car in for a new one. Another source may be a website for the manufacturer of your brand of vehicle.

Is Black Book Car Pricing Generally Higher or Lower than Blue Book Values?

When it comes to selling your car, you want the best price you can get, and studies have shown that black book car pricing. on average, are lower than the trade-in amounts shown in either the Kelley Blue Book or in the NADA and edmunds listings. Black Book gets its prices for used cars based on the weekly amounts that cars sell for at wholesale auctions. Black Book gets these auction price lists from about 50 auctions a week and then averages the prices together to get the price they list for the used vehicles in their weekly publication. They also bounce these auction prices off what the local dealers are charging for cars.