Public Car Auction – Every Saturday 10: 30 AM Interstate Auto Auction, car and driver.#Car #and #driver

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WOW!! 2014 Audi Q7 Only 49,000 Miles!! Retails For $34,000 Save Thousands like the Dealers at Auction!!

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SUPER!! AMAZING 2013 INFINITI JX35 Great Running, Highway Miles! Retails for Nearly $15,000!!

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Public Auto Auctions

Interstate Auto Auction is an auto auction open to the public located in Salem, NH. Our public car auctions sell vehicles from dealer trade-ins, repossessions, lease ends, donated cars and more. At Interstate Auto Auction we want you to buy with confidence. You can TEST DRIVE any of the vehicles before the auction!! Feel Free to review our cars online. We also encourage you to read our about us page and our very helpful and transparent FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS GUIDE which answers over 20 questions that you may have about how we operate.

Interstate Auto Auction now offers you the option to pay for your auction online.

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Buying a Car: What to Know Before You Go – Feature – Car and Driver #car #dvd

#car buy

Car-buying tips to follow before you ever set foot in a car dealership.


Now is a good time to buy a new car. The struggles facing the auto industry are unprecedented and so are the deals available to buyers. Car dealers need to sell cars in order to stay in business, which makes this a strong buyers market. Rebates, financing, and trade-in values are the best they ve been in a long time.

But that doesn t mean it s an easy time to buy a car, and it doesn t mean dealers are going to lie down and give the cars away. A savvy buyer must always be ready, and the preparation should start before you ever set foot in a showroom.

Know the Invoice Price

Once you ve settled on what car is right for you. look up the invoice price for that car in our Buyer s Guide. Invoice price is what the dealer pays the manufacturer for the car; the manufacturer s suggested retail price (MSRP, or sticker price ) includes hundreds usually thousands of dollars of profit for the dealer. With the exception of all-new or very popular models, you should be able to get a new car for closer to invoice than MSRP. Knowing the invoice price of your car will tell the dealer that you mean business and expect a good deal. Don t walk into the dealership without this information.

Check the Manufacturer s Website for Rebates

Many buyers will qualify for multiple rebates, some of which may not even be made public. You might belong to organizations or receive coupons in the mail that entitle you to additional rebates. Be aware of all rebates for which you qualify and make sure you receive them. Dealers are known for not giving buyers every rebate available to them, instead keeping one or two as additional profit.

Research the Dealers

Buying from a cooperative and fair dealer will save you money and headaches. There are a number of websites that allow people to post reviews of dealerships, but their coverage is spotty and incomplete. If you can t find online reviews of the dealer you are considering, just talk to people. Your friends and neighbors purchase cars and should be honest with you about whether they were happy with their car or dealer.

Check Your Credit History

Most people who shop for cars will need a loan. How much that loan costs will depend on your credit history, and knowing your credit history will give you a better idea what to expect from lenders. The Fair and Accurate Credit Transaction Act of 2003 (FACTA) allows every consumer to get a free copy of his or her credit report once a year from each of the three major credit-reporting agencies (TransUnion, Experian, and Equifax). Get a copy of your credit report, and check it for accuracy. Pay the extra few dollars to get your credit score as well, as it is one of the major factors that banks use to determine your creditworthiness.

Get Your Own Financing

The biggest profit center for a car dealership is its finance department. Dealers contract with banks to get the best rates available but might not actually give you those rates. They might get you a car loan for 4.9 percent APR but draw up your finance contract at 5.9 percent. That one-percent markup is strictly profit for the dealer. You can often get a better interest rate from your local bank or credit union, or you can present the rates you were offered elsewhere to your salesman and challenge him to match or beat them. That being said, promotional rates from manufacturers sometimes as low as zero percent can be tough to beat.

Time Your Purchase

Dealers run on a month-to-month basis. At the end of the month, many will accept lower offers to reach their goals and qualify for manufacturer bonuses. If you re not picky about having the latest and greatest, the end of a model year is a great time to get good deals on remaining inventory. And December particularly the last week before the new year is a slow time for car sales, so if you can hack some time out of your holiday-shopping schedule, it s a wise time to buy.

Also, most dealerships are busier on weekends. The weekdays are generally slow, especially in the morning. If you come into the dealership on a midweek morning when business is slow, the salespeople are more likely to make a good deal as well. They need sales and they want to look busy, which keeps them motivated to give you a better deal and earn your business.

Do Not Buy a Car on Your First Visit

Use the first visit to look at and test-drive the car(s) you are interested in. Gather your information and then leave, and be adamant that you will not be buying a car today. This will communicate to the dealer that you are not going to be bullied. Watch what you say to the salespeople especially if they ask you how much you are prepared to pay monthly because whatever you say will be used as a starting point from which the dealer will go up when negotiations eventually start.

Get Internet Quotes from Several Dealers offers free online pricing quotes from your local dealers. Get quotes from multiple dealers before you ever visit any of them. If dealers know they are being pitted against other stores, it will be easier for you to get their best offer right off the bat, and waltzing into a dealership with a first offer already in hand gives you an advantage in negotiations.

Make an Appointment with the Sales Manager

Once your research is done and you are ready to head to the dealership to purchase a new car, call ahead and make an appointment. By calling a sales manager to make your appointment, you communicate that you are serious about this transaction and know what you are doing. You will still be paired with a salesman when you arrive, but your chances improve of getting a straight shooter who knows you won t be easy fodder.

There is no guarantee you will get a good deal on a new-car purchase, nor is there a set price to negotiate toward with any car; pricing always varies with content, age, supply, and demand. But following these rules will start you in the right direction to get the best deal possible on your new car.

Brian Munroe is the author of Car Buying Revealed. You can find out about Munroe and his book at his website,

10 Tips for a Successful Car-Buying Experience on Craigslist – Feature – Car and Driver #car #auctions #london

#buy used cars online

10 Tips for a Successful Car-Buying Experience on Craigslist

The vehicle listings on Craigslist are often light on graphics and always free of oversight, and cruising them can be an eye-opening experience. Usable at no cost for most sellers, half-truths are plentiful in the listings and vehicle histories rare, leaving it to you to connect the dots. (Very few people take our advice for selling a car online .) Yet Craigslist can be a highly effective tool for locating the car of your dreams. Here are 10 tips that should help you separate fact from fiction and satisfied with your purchase:

1. Hone your search. Craigslist allows users to configure their search results to include dealers, private sellers, or both. If a warranty, certified pre-owned status, or convenience is high on your list of priorities, you’ll want to restrict yourself to dealer listings, as there’s no reason to waste time scrolling through pages of clapped out Fox-body Mustangs and worn-out work trucks. On the other hand, if driving for two-hours to look at rust-ravaged, Vietnam-era forward control Jeep that “ran when parked” is your thing, you already know the drill: private sellers all the way. Still, the “both” setting can be handy when looking for a nice commuter car or winter beater, as sometimes dealers will offer such things, although that practice is becoming less common.

If you know exactly which vehicle you want and how much you’re willing to pay, CL offers the option of plugging those criteria in right at the top of your search. Doing so will narrow the offerings accordingly, facilitating a focused search and a rational purchase with a minimum of drama. (To cast a wider net, you can also use one of the many sites that allow you to search every local Craigslist across the country.) Of course, one could argue that a life that doesn’t include at least one late-night back-alley transaction involving a sagging Ford Torino, small farm animals, and some class-C fireworks isn’t really a life worth living.

2. Size up the seller. It’s true you can’t judge a book by its cover, but the type contained within can be quite revealing. If an ad is composed in ALL CAPS and is accompanied by a couple of grainy images that resemble lo-res screengrabs from the Zapruder film, you’re probably in for a rough ride. Likewise, certain sellers like to spice up their ad with buzzwords and phrases like “air blows cold” and “stops on a dime,” which are actually thinly veiled code words for, “if [insert name of component or system in question] is still working when you buy it, it likely won’t be by the time you get the car home.” Bottom line: Judge the vehicle on it’s own merits and don’t believe the hype.

3. Call first. Get as much information about the vehicle as you can on the phone—and always ask if more photos are available or can be taken, especially of problem areas—and try to pick up on the seller’s character. Do they sound composed or sketchy? Engaged or disinterested? There’s nothing worse than carving an hour out of your busy schedule to drive across town only to be greeted by a seller who says, “Well, I was just kinda throwing out a feeler, not sure if I really want to sell it at this point.” Of course, if their voice is tinged with the languid drawl or hyper-intensity of a narcotics aficionado, there’s a good chance they’re looking for a quick sale—cash talks—so quit reading and start buying! We kid, of course.

4. The meet-up. As the buyer, it’s up to you to go to the seller. Meeting on common ground is always a good idea, and if the seller agrees, make arrangements to meet at a well-lit, mutually agreeable location, preferably one with lots of credible witnesses foot traffic. A local “cars and coffee” event is a good option, as is the parking lot of the local auto-parts store or speed shop. Of course, if the vehicle in question isn’t in running condition, you’ll have to visit the car where it sits.

5. A word about vans. Nothing is more creepy and suspicious than two or more guys loitering around an unmarked, windowless lockbox on wheels in a parking lot. (Especially if your meeting place is near a school or government facility.) We love vans, too, but discretion is advised.

6. Get an inspection. Be realistic. If the deal in question involves a decade-old pickup priced around $3K, it’s unreasonable to start bitching about surface rust or worn upholstery. Take it for spin, and thoroughly exercise the accelerator, brake, and, if applicable, clutch pedal and shifter. The steering and suspension will inevitably be looser than when new, but overt creaks, clicks, or clunks could indicate a potential safety issue. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a late-model daily driver for the wife to shuttle the kids around in—or you’re purchasing a classic—do yourself a favor and have it inspected by a reputable shop or expert in the make. A seller with nothing to hide will be more than agreeable.

7. Negotiate. Everything on Craigslist is negotiable. Even if a seller states that a price is firm, the very nature of Craigslist and its low, low price of free for the listings encourages ambitious pricing. Haggling as portrayed on television, however, where the seller caves after a tense 15-second negotiation and lets the car go for half of the asking price rarely happens in the real world. It’s OK to start low, but insulting a seller with an absurdly low number can quickly sour a deal. To score a good price while retaining a modicum of dignity, try asking the seller what their bottom dollar is, and then counter with an offer 15 to 20 percent below that figure; chances are you’ll be within 10 percent of the actual number the owner needs to get the deal done. Always negotiate in person; the only thing cheaper than talk is a tactless e-mail. One last thing: Seal the deal with a handshake, as the human element imparts an air of finality to the deal that only a true psychopath could ignore.

8. Make sure there’s a clean title. Talk is cheap, and when it comes to a missing or suspicious title, everyone has a story. Sorting out an unsound title or sourcing a duplicate is possible, but our experience proves it can be time-consuming and soul-crushing work. So unless the car in question is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, walk. You don’t need the hassle. If a bank or financing company still holds the title on a vehicle, ask the seller to make some calls to ensure everything is kosher, and that the title can be obtained and delivered without undue delay.

9. The exchange. When it comes time to trade green for pink, you can’t find a better location than your personal bank. In addition to being the home turf for your money, banks generally have a notary public on staff who can witness signatures and emboss the bill of sale or other paperwork with their all-important official seal. Building a sound paper trail is a great way to protect yourself in any transaction, so don’t be afraid to ask the seller to take a certified check if the selling price is more than a couple of grand.

10. The road home. At this point, the vehicle in question is yours. Unless spelled out in writing beforehand, the seller has every reason to expect you’ll be removing it from his property pronto. Suddenly announcing that you need to, “get my El Camino running first—to make room,” is of little concern to the seller. If your new vehicle needs to be towed, have arrangements in place; if it’s a driver, buy a pal lunch and have him drop you off. Before you leave, double check to make sure you have everything: the manuals, the spares, and the loose interior bits from that box that was in the trunk. Once the previous owner has your cash, they’ll have little incentive to track you down to hand off anything you forgot.

Top 10 Safe Vehicles for Less Than $25, 000 – Car Comparison – Car and Driver #car #wraps

#safest cars

Safe bets for low rollers.



We live in a nation of unparalleled personal-injury litigation, of warning labels on curling irons that must specify “for external use only,” and of waivers that must be signed before engaging in death-defying activities like roller skating. We are slightly more lax, however, when it comes to transportation. Traffic accidents trail only cancer and heart disease as the leading killer of Americans, and according to a recent New York Times article, we rank 11th in the world for fatalities per mile, more dangerous than countries like Poland and Estonia. This is even with quantum leaps in safety technology made and mandated in the past decade; it’s fairly tough to buy a patently unsafe vehicle nowadays. Some, however, are safer than others.

Like prime real estate and good medical care, the safest cars go first to those who can pay for them. The latest and greatest safety technologies often debut on more expensive marquis models (think BMW 7-series. Volvo S80. Lexus LS460 ) and migrate downstream and across the market within a few years, as parts-bin sharing lowers costs and these technologies increasingly become worth their weight in marketing gold. Where Reaganomics failed as an example of trickle-down theory, the automotive industry shines. Save the fat-wallets first, and then get those on more moderate incomes later.

Vehicular safety is focused in two areas: accident prevention and crashworthiness. Factors such as handling, braking performance, and stability control play into the first; airbags, chassis deformation, and crumple zones the second.

Stability control uses data such as steering-wheel position and yaw and roll rates to detect a skid and then uses anti-lock braking and traction-control systems for prevention and recovery. Stability-control systems across manufacturers work with greater and lesser levels of complexity, sophistication, and efficacy, but they do work. Thanks to a mandate from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), every vehicle sold in this country by model year 2012 will be equipped with such a system.

The U.S. government dictates a minimum of two airbags protecting the front-seat passengers in a frontal impact; many vehicles also come with airbags to protect occupants in side collisions. To make our list, vehicles must have stability control as well as curtain airbags for head protection, bringing the minimum to six. Most of these vehicles feature six airbags as standard; for those that don’t, we’ve built the option into the price, as we’ve done with stability control. Several cars meet the $25,000 price ceiling in four- or six-cylinder trim, which we’ve noted.

NHTSA and its European counterpart, the New Car Assessment Programme (incidentally, also the name of the NHTSA branch responsible for crashing cars), rate the crashworthiness of cars on a five-star scale, five stars being the best score. NHTSA scores cars for driver and passenger protection in frontal impacts and front and rear occupant protection in side impacts; the European NCAP grants cars a single overall protection rating.

Now that you know, choose well, hang a St. Christopher from the rearview mirror, and remember that the single greatest variable in vehicle safety is the loose nut behind the steering wheel. Click on the links above to read about a specific model, or “Next Page” below to browse the list.

The Advantages of Buying a New or Used Vehicle – Car Reviews – Buyers Info – Car and Driver #car #insurances

#buying a used car

A pros and pros list outlining the advantages of choosing either route.

Buyers Info

There are a lot of questions involved in the process of buying a car, but the first, simplest one is probably the most important: Should you buy new or used? To help you choose, we ve laid out the advantages of both below. Keep in mind that although there are more advantages listed on the new side, the pros in the used column are big ones and in many cases can be more to your advantage.


Made to Order Chances are, you can spec a new car just the way you want it, or at least have the dealer search for one with the right combination of options and interior and exterior colors.

It s Not Used Well, duh. A new car hasn t been in any accidents, hasn t been mistreated by unknown evildoers, doesn t smell funny, has seen no wear or tear, and comes with a clean history that includes only being driven off the line, onto a transporter, and around the dealer s lot.

Warranty Like the rest of it, the new car s warranty is untouched. You can buy warranties for used cars or go the certified preowned route, but the best warranty you can get without paying extra will be the one that comes with a new car from the manufacturer.

Latest Gizmos The newer the car, the more modern the geeky tech that s packed inside. Multimedia and navigation interfaces are constantly evolving and improving, so if you have to have the latest in gadgets (and don t want to add them yourself post-factory) the selection will be better in the new-car showroom.

Safety As vehicle safety laws become ever more stringent, automakers are forced to change the way vehicles are built and the safety systems with which they are equipped. Some form of tire pressure monitoring is now mandatory on all vehicles sold in the U.S. and by 2012, stability control will be, too. Other technologies that are not mandated, like blind-spot monitoring systems, side curtain airbags, adaptive cruise control, and brake assist are becoming more prevalent on less expensive vehicles as their associated costs come down.

Higher Fuel Efficiency and Lower Emissions Again, partly thanks to Big Brother, cars are largely getting more fuel efficient, even while simultaneously getting more powerful. The newest crop of diesels is cleaner than ever before, and choices in the hybrid segment are growing, too, if that s your thing.

Financing Banks offer lower financing rates on new vehicles because the vehicles are inherently worth more and have not already been hit by depreciation. Keep in mind that, when the lower APR still applies to a larger sum, your payments or total cost may still be higher. But if you plan to finance, check your deals before buying. The cheaper car might not turn out to be the better deal in the long run.

Maintenance Some new cars, mainly those from luxury marques, include free scheduled maintenance for a certain amount of time or mileage. This built-in cost saving should be considered in the final price analysis if applicable.

Legwork Once you ve chosen a vehicle, or at least the brand you re interested in, much of the new-car search can be offloaded on the salesperson, who can find the car you ask for. The same search in the used realm requires a lot more legwork on your part hunting on the internet, visiting multiple private sellers, and driving from used lot to used lot.


Price Comparing apples to apples, a used car is going to be less expensive. The relative advantage of the used-car price can also allow a buyer to step up to a nicer model.

Depreciation Cars lose value with each passing month and mile, but the steepest decline happens right away; some models can lose 40 percent or more of their value in the first year. With a used car, there s no depreciation hit the second you roll off the lot. There s also less mental depreciation, no need to worry about the first parking-lot ding or rock chip in the paint because chances are the car s previous owner or owners took care of those for you.

Insurance Rates Like financing, insurance rates will be affected by the age of a car, but in this case the used vehicle tends to be less expensive. A little bit of pre-purchase research will save you from insurance sticker shock, no matter which vehicle you choose.

Choice Although you obviously can t build a used car to order, maybe you want a model, option package, or even wheel design that s no longer made. This wider selection can add to the length of the search, but perfection and satisfaction rarely come easily.

2015 Ford Mustang potentially leaked by Car and Driver #mercedes #used #cars

#car and driver

2015 Ford Mustang potentially ‘leaked’ by Car and Driver

Few upcoming debuts have been as eagerly anticipated as the all-new Ford Mustang that’s expected to debut shortly as the Mustang’s 50th anniversary year approaches. Well, Car and Driver magazine would have us wait no longer as it claims to be leaking Ford’s new global pony car early.

Of course what you’re looking at is just as likely to be a composite rendering based on what C/D projects the new Mustang to look like, but to our eyes it looks spot on. Combining design traits from the Evos Concept with classic Mustang signatures and Ford’s Aston-inspired grille treatment, C/D’ s images including a complete 360-degree digital navigator show a Mustang not only for the modern era, but also for global distribution, taking a quintessentially American car to markets its predecessors were never designed for.

Those global considerations are expected to spell the demise of the outgoing Mustang’s holdout live rear axle in favor of an independent suspension, and a slight constricting of the exterior dimensions. And thanks to a separate leak, coming from a digital survey, we have apparent confirmation of what will power the new pony car. While the existing 3.7-liter V6 and 5.0-liter V8 engines will apparently carry over with only slight adjustments in output, the survey confirms a new 2.4-liter turbo four will be positioned in between them, offering slightly more power than the V6 but markedly improved fuel economy for a manageable $560 premium over base.

Car and Driver reports that Ford could replace the base V6 with the 3.5-liter EcoBoost from the Taurus SHO. slot the current supercharged 5.8 into the new GT500 and an all-new twin-turbo V8 into a new GT350. The successor to the Boss 302. however, could go with the new engine or stick with the previous one. We’ll have to wait a little longer, but hopefully not much, to see how this all plays out. In the meantime you can head over to C/D to delve into their project details and play around with the virtual navigator.

Driver and Vehicle Services – Motor Vehicle Sales Tax #car #rental #coupons

#car tax

Tax Rate 6.5%:

Sales tax is due on most purchases or acquisitions of motor vehicles. It is based on the total purchase price or fair market value of the vehicle, whichever is higher. When a vehicle is acquired for nominal or no monetary consideration, tax must be based on the average value of similar vehicles.

$10 is collected on passenger vehicles 10 model years old and older (does not apply to motorcycles). Purchase price must be under $3,000 – see below for sales tax information for older cars.

$150 applies to passenger vehicles and fire trucks registered, or applying for registration, as Collector, Classic, Street Rod and Pioneer, regardless of actual purchase price or fair market value of vehicle. All other vehicles (trucks, one ton pickups, motorcycles) must pay 6.5 percent of the purchase price or fair market value.

The only allowable trade-in, for a reduction of purchase price is another registered or previously registered motor vehicle. Farm equipment, furniture, animals, etc. are not allowed as a trade-in value for sales tax purposes. Please see Minnesota Revenue Fact Sheet 125 – Sales Tax .

What if I Lease a Car? Info – Car Reviews – Car and Driver #call #a #car

#leasing a car

What if I Lease a Car?


If you lease a car, you still need to buy your own auto insurance policy. The auto dealer or bank that is financing the car will require you to buy collision and comprehensive coverage. You’ll need to buy these coverages in addition to the others that may be mandatory in your state, such as auto liability insurance.

  • Collision covers the damage to the car from an accident with another automobile or object.
  • Comprehensive covers a loss that is caused by something other than a collision with another car or object, such as a fire or theft or collision with a deer.

The leasing company may also require “gap” insurance. This refers to the fact that if you have an accident and your leased car is damaged beyond repair or “totaled,” there’s likely to be a difference between the amount that you still owe the auto dealer and the check you’ll get from your insurance company. That’s because the insurance company’s check is based on the car’s actual cash value which takes into account depreciation. The difference between the two amounts is known as the “gap.”

On a leased car, the cost of gap insurance is generally rolled into the lease payments. You don’t actually buy a gap policy. Generally, the auto dealer buys a master policy from an insurance company to cover all the cars it leases and charges you for a “gap waiver.” This means that if your leased car is totaled, you won’t have to pay the dealer the gap amount. Check with the auto dealer when leasing your car.

If you have an auto loan rather than a lease, you may want to buy gap insurance to protect yourself from having to come up with the gap amount if your car is totaled before you’ve finished paying for it. Ask your insurance agent about gap insurance or search the Internet. Gap insurance may not be available in some states.

Next question: Do I need insurance to rent a car?

10 Collectible Classic Muscle Cars You Can Afford – Feature – Car and Driver #club #car #golf #carts

#muscle cars

You probably won’t even have to ask the kids to skip college.

It s mind-boggling. You sit there for hours, watching middle-aged guys in Hawaiian shirts and big watches bid stupid money on muscle cars on the myriad cable channels that broadcast collector-car auctions these days. Crappy models that were being swapped among migrant farm workers a decade ago for tens of dollars go for high five figures now. And the good stuff is all over $100,000. The great stuff? That s in the millions: A 1967 L88 Corvette went for $3.5 million at Barrett-Jackson before all the fees that make founder Craig Jackson wealthy. So it s safe to say that you probably can t afford the classic muscle car of your dreams. (What are you going to do with a $3.5 million Corvette anyway? Drive it?)

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Note: All prices come from the NADA Classic Car Guide. The lower number is what you can expect to pay for an example in average condition, the higher number is the top-end value for a well-maintained used car. As with any car, pristine, fully preserved, and unicornesque examples would go for more.

1. 1970 71 Ford Torino GT and Mercury Cyclone GT

Senior Driver Car Insurance Guide #senior #driver #car #insurance,elderly #drivers #car #insurance,elderly #care


Senior Driver Car Insurance Guide

Ensure your parents get the best and most affordable senior driver car

insurance as they age and learn to recognize the signs that they are no longer able to safely operate a vehicle.

Many people, including seniors themselves, don’t realize that drivers over the age of 75 are among the highest group involved in daytime traffic accidents.

Accidents involving seniors over 75 cause more injuries and deaths than any other age group. How do you know if you’re a safe driver? What signs do you look for in mom or dad that may indicate a decline in driving skills? On the other end of the spectrum, can safe, mature drivers receive better rates on senior driver car insurance?

What to look for with Elderly Drivers

Sure, elderly drivers have decades of driving experience and more often than not are aware of road safety and speed, but they may also suffer from slower reaction times and skills. When it comes to driving, seniors, or children of the elderly must be aware of certain signs that driving skills are decreasing. This is not the time to be too proud to admit that age may be catching up with you. Your safety and the safety of your family as well as others on the highway are very important considerations.

Basic signs or aging factors that may affect the driving ability of individuals over 65, but especially focus on those elderly drivers over 70 years of age include:

  • Increased reaction time – studies have shown that seniors can do anything a younger person can, but that the response time performing such actions or activities slows down. The same thing goes for driving.

  • Limited mobility – flexibility also decreases as we age. Full range of motion as well as immediate reaction times is essential for road safety.

Arthritis, spine or bone injuries, heart disease, obesity, and diabetes are just a few of the medical conditions that may cause loss of full range of motion.

  • Medications – most individuals are cautioned against driving when under the influence of medication. As size, weight and condition will determine whether or not an individual is affected by medications, discuss concerns with your family care provider. A good rule of thumb is not to drive when under any type of medication.
  • Hearing and vision loss – any type of vision acuity or hearing loss may affect road safety, not only yours, but those around you. Many seniors quit driving at night, but should also remember that sensitivity to sunlight and glare effect every driver, and not just seniors.

However, changes in vision depth, peripheral vision and conditions such as astigmatism, glaucoma or cataracts may also affect the senior person’s ability to see both nearby and distant objects adequately.

When the time is right, discuss driving safety with your elderly parents. Loss of independence is often very difficult for seniors to accept, but it’s important to stress the safety not only of them, but others and their property. Whenever possible, suggest alternatives or solutions to transportation issues, such as car pools, buses, shuttles, senior service transportation or taxi services.

Senior Driver Car Insurance Rates

Many states throughout the country, offer automobile insurance discounts to seniors who engage in senior safety driving programs. In addition, AARP (American Association of Retired Persons) members may receive discounts on automobile insurance services and products depending on geographical location.

The national average of car insurance rates is approximately $800.00. Drivers in California, New York, and Washington DC may pay over $1000 year, while individuals living in Kansas, North Dakota, and Nebraska may pay an average of $500 year. Auto insurance rates are determined by geographical location, type of car driven, age of the driver, prior accidents, and distance driven on a daily and yearly basis, so check with local senior driver car insurance providers as well as through organizations such as the AAA Website and AARP Website for more information regarding cost of auto insurance in a specific area.

Negotiating for a Better Rate Most insurance companies offer discounts of between five and 10% on insurance to individuals between the age of 50 and 55, though insurance rates often increase after the 55-year-old mark.

As an example a senior driver may take defensive driving courses to reduce insurance costs by up to another 10%. Such driving courses generally cost between $10 and $30 for an eight hour, two-day course.

A few simple tactics to negotiate a better senior driver car insurance rate include:

  • Speak to your insurance agent
  • Offer to combine home and auto insurance with the same company
  • Let the auto insurance agent know if you carpool or your daily or yearly driving distance has decrease.

A senior driver needs to be especially careful getting behind the wheel of a car. Remember, where there’s a will, there’s a way.

Don’t endanger yourself or others, but work with other family members to develop a safe mode of transportation no matter where you live.

Are Your Parents Still Driving?

Are your elderly parents still driving and is that becoming a concern? How are you planning to broach the subject of taking the keys from Dad or Mom?

What Other Visitors Have Said

Click below to see contributions from other visitors to this page.

Things to Consider with Elderly Driving Issues
A family member takes your car keys and tells you that you can’t drive anymore. Imagine your reaction. I recently faced this issue when it became painfully

88 and Still Driving (Me Crazy, too)
I’m a professional driver about to obtain my commercial driver license. My dad’s an 88 year old semi-retired pastor who has a self-imposed schedule which

Dad is 86 and Wants to Lease a New Truck
My Dad is 86 and we are concerned about him still driving. He does not want to hear about it. He leased a truck in 2012 and used it for one year. He

My Mother is Still Driving and I am Worried to Death for Her
My mother can only be described as “one of those” elderly drivers. We have had her close by for three years now and she insists on being independent

Hearing Problems
My mother is 83 right now and will be 84 in 2012. She has a hearing problem in which the family tries to talk to her and she won’t hear any of us unless

My Elderly Dad is 85 Years Old and Still Driving
My Dad is 85 and is still driving and it worries me so much. to see him barely able to walk and get around yet still driving is causing some very worrisome

92 Year Old Refuses to Stop Driving Two Cars and a Vespa
Hello. I am 50 year old divorced mother of two adult children who has moved in from my home in the south – to live in the North. I am the youngest

Feel Older Than I Look. Not rated yet
I reached under his car and disconnected the distributor cap. He is 90, has had a stroke and has seriously failing eyesight (macular degeneration & cataracts)-

THIS is When you Know it’s Time for your Father to Stop Driving Not rated yet
My Mum and Dad strove hard to keep their independence. We live in Western Australia and public transport is not fabulous, but they did use it when they

Dad Won’t See that it is Dangerous to Continue to Drive Not rated yet
I have been trying to get Dad to give up driving for the last several years and HE JUST BOUGHT ANOTHER CAR! The last car was an old late 90’s car that

Daughter Concerned about Elderly Driver Mother Not rated yet
Mom is 84, will be 85 in 2012. She has glaucoma,cataracts (getting fixed)arthritis in her neck, Neuropathy in hands and feet, delayed reaction time.